Pryguny
in Baja California,
Mexico
Pryguny (Saltadores
Santos) en Baja California, México
|
Updated : 7 July 2011.
Since 1905, "Los Rusos," Russian
sectarian Pryguny, and a few Molokane and Cossacks begin living in
4
farming colonies near Ensenada, Baja
California, Mexico:
- Valle
de
Guadalupe —
"Colonia Rusa," the
main
Russian colony,
~20+
square
miles
negotiated in
1905,
is
now
the
town
of
Francisco
Zarco,
Guadalupe
Valley,
50
miles
south
of
San
Diego,
California,
and
15
miles north-east of Ensenada.
- San Antonio, about half-way
between Guadalupe and Ensenada.
- Mision del Orno, west of
Guadalupe, along the coast.
- Punta Banda, south of Ensenada,
on the coast..
They were Russian sectarians, not-Orthodox. Most were Pryguny by faith, who were
presented by Captain de Blumenthal as
"bebedores de leche" (milk-drinkers), their former faith instead of "saltadores
santos" (holy
jumpers) their actual faith. Their contract with the government labels
them as colonos
rusos (Russian settlers).
Their contract, Executive Order 118, was registered 15 March 1906 between C.
Andrés Aldasoro, Deputy Manager of the Office of the Ministry of
Development, on behalf of the Federal Executive, and Mr. Ivan Samarin and Mr. C.P. de Blumenthal, for Pryguny settlers in the Territory
of Baja California to establish an Agricultural- Industrial Colony. The
10-year contract was secured with a deposit of $1500, required an
organization within 1 year, and within 2 years at least "100 families
of Russian settlers, not less than 350 people." Though freedom of
religion is guaranteed under Mexican law, the Russians included it in
their contract, along with exception from military service.
Families disatisfied with the colony organization moved to the U.S. or
Russia, or rented up to 50 square miles from about 10 nearby
ranches. The total peak acreage farmed was about 70 square miles,
mostly dry
farming (not irrigated). Additional land was used for cattle grazing.
Work brigades camped at the satellite farms during the work week. Often
local Indians were hired. On weekends, most
Russians returned to the main colony for three prayer services — Saturday evening, Sunday morning
and evening.
In 2009, more than 100 descendants of these Russians could be found in
local phone
books, and probably a 1000 desendants live in Mexico. Nearly all have
intermarried. Many original
buildings remain.
Baja Russians were in economic decline then became an economic growth
sector for the valley after
anthropologist Therese Adams Muranaka completed her 1980s research and PhD dissertation. She led groups of university student
volunteers to
excavate old outhouse (sral'nik)
pits
for
evidence
of
changes
from
Russian
to
Mexican
culture,
and
interviewed
early
residents.
Her
work
was featured in a museum
exhibit shown in
San Diego (1988-1989). Dukh-i-zhiniki
from the
Los Angeles area attended the opening and sang a few
songs. Afterward the Baja California state government became interested
in
preserving their history and promoting the local economy. Muranaka
assisted the growth of tourism with advice and by guiding tours of
Americans to the area.
Today three "Russian" museums and a restaurant in the Guadalupe Valley
compete for tourists. One
museum is government owned. Two museums are privately owned by Samarins
(with restaurant) and Bibayoffs (with winery). The
prayer house is closed, last used for a funeral in 1992,
but tours are provided by caretaker Gabe Kachirisky
when he is
available. On the west end of town, two museums and the
restaurant are together, 1/4 mile east of the prayer house.
Bibayoff's is 6 miles west of town.
Many books, papers, articles, web sites, a film and 2 doctoral theses
have
documented the
colonies. The
most illustrative book was written and self published by former
resident George
Mohoff: The Russian colony of
Guadalupe: [Pryguny] Molokans
in Mexico (read
online). Some sources have errors which are corrected here when
found. A major error is few, if any, Molokane lived in Mexico. Most
"Rusos" in near Ensenada were by faith Dukhhovnye
khristiane-pryguny (Spiritual
Christian
Jumpers,
Духовные
христиане-прыгуны;
Spanish: Saltadores),
mislabled as Molokane to hide their actual charismatic religion from
the govenment.
On this page is a collection of online information in English (comments
and
corrections in red),
in
Spanish and in Russian
(with machine
translations), a book list
and web sites with photos and videos, with one
photo gallery in Russian. Most of the references to "Molokan" refer to
a diverse Russian ethnic group. After 1928, the religion they somewhat
practiced was Dukh-i-zhiznik.
English
[Pryguny] Molokans in America:
Chapter 2:
The First
Years, by John K. Berokoff,
Los Angeles California, 1969.
- Detailed maps: Ruta del
Vino (Wine Route), Google Earth, Wikimapia.
- The Baja Beat: The Russians of Guadalupe
Valley, by Greg Niemann, The San Clement Journal.
- Ens-Guad Trip May 4, 2002 — Lynn &
Bev's Tour in Baja
- State Museum: Russian
Community Museum of Guadalupe Valley
- Rancho Guadalupe [Prygun] Molokan Cemetery,
Baja,
Lower Calif., Mexico — Posted by George "Ghrishka" Bolderoff, with
Comments.
- Mexico's Russian Colony / La
Comunidad Rusa en Mexico — Posted in 1996 on "History of Mexican
Peoples" by Dr. David Rojas.
- Trying to Recapture Russian Emigres' Life in
Mexico, Living Among Ghosts Brings a Strange Peace — By Jessica
Garrison, Los Angeles Times,
December 1, 2002.
- Contract to Maintain Mexico Church, with
G. A. Kashirisky — June 1, 1992.
- Pacifist Community Perserves, By Mary
Forgione, Los Angeles
Daily News.
- Transplanted Sakhaliner: Cheurniy Kleb
[Black Bread] in
Baja, Mexico, The Sakhalin Times
— Oct 9, 2004, Updated Aug 24, 2005.
- Mexico [Prygun] Molokan Historic Monument
Planned,
by George Mohoff.
- USC's Russian Club: Russians in Mexico,
Web site of the
Department of Slavic
Languages and Literature and Russian Club, University of California,
Los Angeles.
- Chapter 2: The Russians of Guadalupe del
Norte, by Marion
Smothers. Vintage Baja: Adventures of a Gringa in Lower California,
1993.
- Morris Photo Art — 4 photos of
Mexican-Molokan grave markers.
- Ivan Guryevich Samarin (1857-1948) — the
"Great Molokan
Communicator", The Molokan Review,
1949.
- Photo of [Prygun]
Molokan
girls, in Gale
Multicultural America Encyclopedia: Russian Americans
- Mexico: A destination specialist course.
(PDF), by The
Travel Institute, 2004.
- The Russians of Guadalupe Valley: [Holy
Jumpers] Milk
Drinkers in Wine Country, in Baja
Legends:
The
Historic
Characters,
Events
and
Locations
That
Put Baja California on the Map, by Greg Niemann, 2002.
- Bodega Bibayoff, jAzZblOg, March 27, 2006.
- The Russian Colony of Guadalupe [Pryguny]
Molokans in
Mexico, book by
George W. Mohoff, 226 pages, 1995. Read
online.
- Books and theses about Pryguny in Mexico
at public
libraries, listed
at WorldCat
- 3 Videos in English, Spanish, Russian,
English — YouTube.com
- Bitter
Blow
to
[Pryguny]
Molokane:
Wife
Dies
While
He’s
Far
Away
Seeking
Fortune, Los
Angeles Times, Nov 24, 1905,
pg. II6.
- Russian
Colonists
Going
to
Mexico:
[Pryguny]
Molokanes
on
the
Move, Los
Angeles
Times, August 23, 1907, page II3
- Electricity
Spells
Triumph
for
Russ
Colony
in
Mexico, Los
Angeles Times, dated May 30,
1949, page 2, with 6 photos.
- Angel
of
Guadalupe, by Ed Ainsworth, Los
Angeles Times, Jan 29, 1954, page A5.
- Tractor
Crossing:
Federal
Court
Convicts
'Angel
of
Guadalupe', Los
Angeles Times, Oct 13, 1955,
page A8.
- Russian
Cuisine
in
the
Guadalupe
Valley, Gastronomic
Route, Baja California State Tourism
- [Prygun] Molokan
Descendants in
Mexico, Compatriots "United
Russia", February 12, 2007
- Baja
Wine
-
Bibayoff:
From
Russia
with
Love, Spirit and Wine, Baja
Times, Volume I, Number 96
January 1-15, 2009.
- The
Russian
Colony — Moon Travel
Guides [Mexico], January 9, 2009. Google
Books, 2007.
- From Kars to Mexico:
Russian [Pryguny] Molokans at the other end of the world, RIA News, July 3, 2009.
- Bibayoff,
Russian
tradition
settled
in
México (photos), Gina Naya,
Food & Wine web site.
- Was this Russian art rug woven by
Pryguny or Cossacks in Mexico? Question by
Cheron
Frazier.
- Mexico's
valley of wine, Sacramento Bee,
January
6,
2010.
- Cemetery
Names
of Pryguny in
Mexico, "Appendix E", The
Russian Colony of Guadalupe [Pryguny] Molokans
in Mexico, by George W. Mohoff, 1995, pages 223-226.
- Russian
Vintners Win Gold at Baja California Wine Event, Vino-Tourism by Steve Dryden
August 31, 2009.
- Fire,
Blast
Wreck
Mill, Berkeley Daily
Gazette, page 5, September 11, 1937 — "… the only market for
wheat raised at a nearby Russian colony."
- Baja,
Russian
Colony
Lives
in
Serene
Past, The
Sunday Morning Star, Wilmington
Delaware, page 3, July 28, 1940.
- Colonia Rusa:
Vestiges of Russia fade in Baja village, The San Diego Union, July 7, 1988.
- History:
Will
Jews
Follow
Russians
To
Exile
In
Lower
Calif.? The
Oakland Tribune, November 22,
1938, page 8D.
- Guadalupe
Valley's
Alternative
Wine
Route, Mexico
Living, Food and Wine Edition, page 21.
- A
Little
Russia
in
Mexico; Colonists Came in 1904 to Lower California
Peninsula and , Far Off Tourists' Path, Kept Up the Old Traditions, The Milwaukee Journal, December 14,
1932, page 6. — Interview with John Samarin, age 22.
- Mexico,
Agriculture
&
Colonization. [Letter to Editor], The
Louisiana
Planter
And
Sugar
Manufacturer, Vol.39, August 17, 1907, page 105. — Sugar
industry promotes agricultural land for a Russian colony, H. C. Archer
formerly Mexican Central Railway, 100,000+ acres in Tamaulipas.
- Squatters
Get
Russian
Land, New Era
(Kentucky), July 7, 1958, page 37. — 3000 squatters take 4500 acres
from 95 White Russians.
Руский
— Russian
- Потомки молокан в Мексике,
Соотчесвенники "Русь Единая",
2007-02-12
- От Карса до Мексики:
русские молокане на другом конце светаx, РИА Новости, 03.07.2009
Español
—
Spanish.
[Machine
translated from Spanish to English online.]
- Los
orígenes
de
la
migración
rusa
a
Baja
California
José Luis González López, Bertha Paredes Acevedo, Calafia: Revista de la Universidad
Autónoma de Baja California, Tijuana. Nueva
época,
vol.
I,
núms.
1-8,
enero
2001-diciembre
2004.
Universidad Autonóma de Baja
California,
Instituto de Invetigaciónes Históricas, Tijuana
[Machine translated: The
origins
of
the
Russian
migration
to
Baja
California. By José Luis Gonzalez Lopez,
Bertha Paredes Acevedo. Calafia:
Magazine of the Independent University of Baja California, Tijuana.
New
time,
vol.
I,
nos.
1-8,
January
2001-December
2004.
University
of
Baja
California,
Department
of
Investigative
History,
Tijuana.]
- [Saltadores]
Molokanes
y
el
Vino
Ruso
en
Guadalupe. Nota publicada el 13 de agosto de
2005. Por Elizabeth Vargas
[Machine translated: Pryguny
and
Russian
Wine
in
Guadalupe. Published August 13, 2005, by
Elizabeth Vargas]
- Mexican
Vistas: La Comunidad Rusa en Mexico, By James Clifford Safley,
Editor, San Diego Union. 1952
[Translated by Dr Rojas from the original English article: Mexico's
Russian
Colony]
- El
Museo Comunitario del Valle de Guadalupe, Ejemplo de la Diversidad
Cultural de Baja California, Gabriela Olivares. Consejo Nacional
para la Cultura y las Artes, Un proyecto del PACMyC.
[Machine translated: The
Community
Museum
of
Guadalupe
Valley,
An
Example
of
the
Cultural
Diversity
of
Baja
California, by Gabriela Olivares. National
Counsel for Culture and Arts, a project of PACMyC.]
- Se
extinguen
los
rusos
de
la
Sierra
de
Juarez. México
amargo, By Manuel
Mejido 1980. Pages 19-22
[The Russians of the Juarez mountain range are extinguished", in Bitter Mexico]
- "Capítulo
XX:
El
Valle
de
Guadalupe". Historia
de Baja California: De Cueva Pintada a la Modernidad, 2
edición.
Antonio Ponce Aguilar. 2002.
["Chapter XX: Guadalupe Valley". History
of
Baja
California:
A
Modern
Painted
Cave, 2 edition. By Antonio
Ponce Aguilar, 2002.]
- Hacia
un
Plan
de
Manejo
del
Agua
en
Valle
de
Guadalupe,
Baja
California.
A. Baddan, et.al., p. 45-64. II Seminario Internacional de
Vitivinicultura, 3 y 4 Agosto de 2005, Ensenada, B.C. Mexico. Ciencia. Revista de la Academia
Mexicana de Ciencias. 2005.
["Designing a plan for handling water in Guadalupe Valley, Baja
California". By A. Baddan, et.al. (and others). Pages 45-64. 2005 II
Seminar of the International Vitivinicultura, August 3-4, 2005,
Ensenada, B.C. Mexico. Science.
Magazine
of
the
Mexican
Academy
of
Sciences.]
- “El último refugio. Los rusos molokanos del valle de
Guadalupe, Baja California”. Gómez Estrada, José
Alfredo. México, en: Boletín
del
Archivo
General
de
la
Nación, 6ª época, agosto-octubre de 2003,
no. 1,
p. 137-152.
["The last refuge. The Russian Molokans of Guadalupe Valley,
Baja California". Gomez Estrada, Jose Alfredo. Mexico, in: Bulletin
of the General archives of the Nation, 6th edition,
August-October of
2003, no. 1, pages 137-152.]
- YouTube Video: Mexican indigenous
Russians rusos русскиe
(6:37 min) English text, Spanish conversation.
- Los
[Saltadores]
Molokanes
el
el
Valle
de
Gaudalupe, Grupo Enologico Mexicano, Excelsior 2002
[Machine translated: [Pryguny]
Molokans in
Guadalupe Valley, Mexican Ethnic Groups, Excelsior 2002]
- 23/08: Altos
impuestos sacan del mercado al vino mexicano, COPARMEX
Aug. 23, 2008: Higher
taxes
put
them
out
of
the
Mexican
wine
market
- 30
Fotos
de
bibayoff, (30 photos of David Bibyoff ranch) Panoramio (6
photos are nearby locations)
- Los descendientes
[Saltadores] Molokans
en México, Compatriotas
"Русь Único", El 12 de febrero de 2007
- Inmigración
rusa
en
México, Spanish
Wikipedia.org [Machine translated: Rusian
immigration
in
Mexico]
- El Reportaje, La Ventana de Ensenada 2009 [Feature, Window
to Ensenada, 2009]
- "Rusia
en
México,"
Baja California,
tierra incógnita, by
Fernando Jordán, 2001, pages 51-56.
- Viaje
al corazon del vino mexikano, Vinisfera,
Num.2,
2000.
Pages
22-23.
- Los
rostros del vino: Bibayoff, Vinisfera,
Num.3,
2000.
Pages
26-27.
Large
photo
- Los
[Saltadores]
Molokanes
:
Rompiendo
las
ataduras
de
la
Iglesia
Ortodoxa, El
Trigo
Ahogado, 13 de agosto de
2010
Photo
and
video
websites
- Irina's Gallery (Russian), Baja California, Mexico,
Feb 24, 2007 — 138 photos (offline)
Photos
24-31: Guadalupe restaurant, museum — Photos
48-50: Bibayoff and Dalgoff house
- Ens-Guad Trip May 4, 2002 — Lynn &
Bev's Tour in Baja
- Rancho Guadalupe [Prygun] Molokan
Cemetery,
Baja,
Lower Calif., Mexico — Posted by George "Ghrishka" Bolderoff, with
Comments.
- Russians in Mexico, Website of
the
Department of Slavic
Languages and Literature and Russian Club, University of California,
Los Angeles
- Morris Photo Art — 4 photos of
Mexican-Molokan grave markers
- Photo of [Prygun] Molokan girls,
in
Gale
Multicultural
America
Encyclopedia:
Russian Americans
- 3 Videos in English, Spanish,
Russian,
English — YouTube.com
- Rancho
Torros
Pintos
(Bibayoff), ~50 photos of Bibayoiff ranch and area,
Panoramio.com
- Bibayoff,
Russian
tradition
settled
in
México (photos), Gina Naya,
Food & Wine web site
- Photo Bucket.com/Darwalk/Mexico Wineries/, 2 images of entrance
and courtyard
- [Pryguny]
Molokans
in
Mexico:
Valle
de
Guadalupe,
Baja
Mexico — 79 photos Babishoffs,
Nov 10, 2009, Picasaweb.
- Ghriska's Fotki Photo Albums, by George Bolderoff who
started with his family tree and grew — 3 sections about Mexico.
- [Pryguny]
Molokans
in
Mexico:
Valle
de
Guadalupe,
Baja
Mexico, Nov 10, 2009 — 79
photos by Aliscia Niles (Babishoff)
Links to some of many
websites
that mention Molokans and Jumpers in
Mexico
- Grass
Roots Guerrilla of South Twin Lake, by Carl J. Nelson. 1980. Pages
320-324
- Two
tales
of
a
city:
People
building
roots, San
Diego Union-Tribune, March 9, 1995.
- Baja's
travel
outfitters:
a
tour
through
the
ranks, The
San Diego Union-Tribune. April
13, 1995. Page 62.
- Fertile
valley
helps
Mexican
wines
grow
in
quality,
sales, Milwaukee
Journal
Sentinel, Mar 19, 2000.
Page 20A.
- The 90 Day Yacht Club
Guide to Ensenada (Internet newsletters)
- A
taste
of
Mexico
days
of
wine
and
chocolate, The
Gazette (Montreal, Canada.com),
November 12, 2005.
- Ensenada,
Baja California. Wikipedia.org
- Ensenada.
Visitor
Information:
Day
Three
- Ensenada
Road
To
Tecate, Towards Guadalupe Valley: Monte Xanic
- Backgrounders:
Wine, Mexican Tourism Board, Press Room. Copied at: The
Wines of Baja Norte
- A
taste
of
Napa
in
Baja:
The
Guadalupe
Valley
is
home
to
wineries
and
a
historic
Russian
community, The
San Diego Union-Tribune, May 16, 2004 Page: 31.
ERROR: Molokans DID NOT come to America through Alaska.
- A
taste
of
Mexico
days
of
wine
and
chocolate, by Julian Armstrong, The
Gazette (Montreal, Canada),
November 12, 2005.
Copied at: BajaNomad » Baja Travel Articles » A taste of
Mexico days of wine and chocolate
- Baja
California Wine Country: Guadalupe Valley, by Steve Dryden
- Mexican wines and wineries: Getting to
Know Mexican Wine and Russian History, “Vino-Tourism” by Steve
Dryden
- Baja's
wine
surprise:
A
short
drive
from
Ensenada,
vineyards
and
tasting
rooms
are
flourishing, San Francisco
Chronicle, April 10, 2005.
- The
Samarin's
of
Francisco
Zarco: Within the Valley of Guadalupe - A
garden paradise by Malecon, Francisco Zarco Pages, update: Jun 20, 2006. Photo: "Norma
Samarin at her panderia".
- Environmental
Assessment
of
Impacts
from
a
Liquefied
Natural
Gas
Facility
in
Baja
California,
Mexico. University of Wyoming, School of Environment
and Natural Resources. ENR 4900/5900 Class Project, Spring 2007. Pages
91-93
- Case
Study:
Baja
Bottled, by Toby Cecchini. The
New York Times Magazine:
Travel. March 25, 2007
- The
Talk:
Case
Study;
Baja
Bottled, New
York Times, March 25, 2007.
- Wine, Music
and Food Festivals in Baja California, Mexico, Vino-Tourism by Steve Dryden, June
9, 2008.
- Wine
Country
News
in
Mexico, by Steve Dryden. Mexico
Living, January 1, 2009.
- The Joy of
Living in Mexico’s Finest Wine Country, Vino-Tourism by Steve Dryden,
October 26, 2009.
- White
Mexican, Wikipedia.org
|
1. [Pryguny] Molokans
in America by John K. Berokoff, Los Angeles California, 1969
In chapter
2, Berokoff presents a good summary of the history of the Mexico
Molokan and Jumper
colonies:
... agents for
a large tract of land in Lower California, Mexico, learning of the
[Prygun] Molokan
desire to establish a farming community, contacted them early in 1906
with
a proposition to sell them the tract which was called Rancho Guadalupe
and on terms within reach of people who were still impoverished from
their
emigration from Russia.
This tract of land consisting of 13,000 acres [20.3 square miles] was
located 60 miles south of the United States-Mexico border, in a pretty
valley [Spanish: Valle de Guadalupe]
through which flowed a small stream but
which turned into a
torrent
after a rain storm. The land was capable of producing a good crop of
wheat
in a rainy year but was also subjected to cycles of dry years ....
... 50 families were attracted to the
proposition
to purchase the tract. Led by Vasili Gavrilitch Pivovaroff and Ivan G.
Samarin the land was bought for the sum of $40,000 and a site was
selected
for a village in the style of their native Russia, except that, for
lack
of logs, the houses were built of adobe in the style of Mexico.
- The title to the whole tract of land was vested in the
names of
three trustees.
- No grant deeds or other evidence of ownership were issued
to
the
individual owners. The names of individual owners were simply recorded
in a community book, which was entrusted to a person elected for that
purpose.
- A government surveyor never officially surveyed the land
nor
was
the subdivision recorded in government archives. Apparently, to save
the
cost of a qualified surveyor, they chose the method that was used by
their
fathers and forefathers in Russia. Measuring off a length of rope and
using
natural and artificial markers, such as large imbedded rocks or trees,
they did the job in their own crude manner and proceeded to allot the
land
to the individual owners.
... the
whole colony of 50 families were divided into 10 family units of
five
families to a unit. The whole tract of land was then divided into
several
sections, each section suitable for a certain crop. Thus there was a
section
of river bottom land; another section at higher level and suitable for
raising grain, a hill-side section for raising hay and a section of
untillable
mountainous land which was left undivided for community use as cattle
pasture. Each section of tillable land was then subdivided
into ten parcels for which the ten family units proceeded to draw lots
for their share of each category. The family units then drew lots for
ownership
of their individual parcels according to the need of each family.
.... in 1952 squatters from the city of Mexicali,
discovering
that no deeds were recorded to some of the colonist's land, forcibly
settled
upon the land and despite the intervention of Federal, troops, at times
successfully claimed ownership thereto through squatters rights. ...
After these raids of squatters ... all but
a very few families emigrated to the United States, and the colony as
such
ceased to exist. [Now the town is
named Fransico Zarco, and 3 museums
have been created to provide employment and attract tourists. A list of names from
Mohoff (1995) is posted.]
|
2. Detailed
Maps
Ruta del Vino (Wine Route)
with landmarks. Shows highway #3 route in red from Pacific Coast
Highway (1), just north of Ensenada, to the north edge of the former
Russian town of Francisco Zarco. Turn left through town, until the road
bends, about 2 miles. Find 2 museums and Samarin Family Restaurant
across the street
from each other just past the prayer house. About 5 miles farther
southwest find the Bibayoff
winery (#15) with a 3rd museum. Or, go northeast to the hot springs
(#46). Click maps to enlarge.
- See satellite aerial views of the valley from Google
Maps, WikiMapia,
...
- See street maps from Yahoo
Maps, Live
Search, MultiMap
- Cross-hairs in
center of these satellite images point to the cemetery,
prayer
house
(assembly), Samarin
Family
Restaurant, Samarin
Museum, Community
Museum, Alex
Samarin
ranch (home of last presbyter), Gabe
Bibayoff
farm, David
Bibayoff
winery
and
museum, Spoon
Rock
(loshka), Junction
of
Highway
3
and
Main
Street, The
Blowhole (La Bufadora), ...
- You can also click on some of the sites on the aerial map
below to go to high resolution satellite images.
|
3. The
Baja
Beat: The
Russians of Guadalupe Valley, by Greg Niemann, The San
Clement Journal

|
4. Ens-Guad Trip May 4, 2002 — Lynn & Bev's Tour in Baja
Photos 9 thru 51 were taken in Guadalupe showing the town, museums,
church and cemetery. Posted by George "Ghrishka" Bolderoff

|
5. State
Museum: Russian
Community
Museum
of
Guadalupe
Valley
Secretaría
de
Turismo
del
Estado
de
Baja
California:
Ruta
del Vino: Miseos y Sitios Historicos :
Museo
Comunitario
Ruso
del
Valle
de
Guadalupe
Ubicado en un inmueble de la antigua colonia Rusa, cuenta con una
pequeña exposición de memorabilia rusa y objetos
indígenas. Recorridos guiados al sitio misional, aguas termales,
pinturas rupestres y comunidades indígenas, previa cita. De la
carretera #3 tomar el camino principal pasando frente al Centro de
Salud IMSS hasta llegar al museo, ubicado a la izquierda del camino,
casi frente al Museo Comunitario del Instituto Nacional de
Antropología e Historia (INAH).
Av. Principal # 276
Valle de Guadalupe, B.C.
Tel. (646) 155-2030
alex_museoruso@hotmail.com
museoruso_samarin@hotmail.com |
Secretary of
Tourism,
State of Baja California:
Wine Route:
Historical Museums and Sites
Russian
Community
Museum
of
Guadalupe
Valley
There is a small
Russian exhibition of memorabilia and indigenous objects located in a
building of the old Russian colony. Routes guided
the misional site, thermal waters, cave paintings and indigenous
communities, previous appointment needed. From highway #3, take the
main road
passing in front of the Center of Health IMSS until arriving at the
museum, located to the left of the road, almost in front of the
Communitarian Museum of the National Institute of Anthropology and
Historia (INAH).
Main Ave. # 276
Guadalupe Valley, B.C.
Tel. (646) 155-2030
alex_museoruso@hotmail.com
museoruso_samarin@hotmail.com |
Museo
Comunitario
Ruso
del Valle de Guadalupe
Estado:: Baja California
Ubicado en un inmueble de la antigua colonia Rusa, en el Valle de
Guadalupe, en Baja California. |

|
Russian Community Museum
of Guadalupe Valley
State: Baja
California
Located in a building of the former Russian colony in Valle de
Guadalupe, Baja California. |
|
En 1905 llegaron los
primeros colonos rusos pertenecientes al grupo
[Saltadores] Malakhanys (Molokan) “molocanes” que quiere decir
“bebedores de leche”,
venían de Rusia encabezados por Basilio Pivavaroff, Basilio
Tolmasoff y
Simeón Babichoff quienes se encargaron de la colonización
del Valle de
Guadalupe en Ensenada.
En el inicio se establecieron 60 familias, que se dedicaron
principalmente a la crianza de gansos, patos, a la agricultura y
siembra de uva y trigo.
Actualmente, se puede visitar a algunas familias como Martha y Gabriel
Kachirisky que siguen con esta tradición, hacen el pan con la
receta
original rusa y comidas típicas rusas para grupos
pequeños.
Este museo, cuenta con una pequeña exposición de
memorabilia rusa y
objetos indígenas. ofrece platillos rusos, así como la
venta de queso,
pan y vino artesanal.
También Podrás dar un recorrido guiado al sitio misional,
aguas termales, pinturas rupestres y comunidades indígenas.
Como llegar::
Por aire, al Aeropuerto Internacional General Abelardo L.
Rodríguez, en
la carretera Internacional s/n, en el municipio de Tijuana, arriban
diariamente un promedio de 120 vuelos, procedentes de distintas
ciudades de México y los Estados Unidos.
|
In 1905 the first settlers arrived
from the Russian group
[Pryguny] Malakhanys (Molokans) "molocanes", which means "milk
drinkers". They came from
Russia headed by Basil (Vasili) Pivavaroff , Basil Tolmasoff, and
Simeón Babichoff
who were responsible for the colonization of the Guadalupe
Valley in Ensenada.
At the start there were 60 families who were devoted primarily to
raising geese, ducks, agriculture and planting grapes and wheat.
Currently, you can visit some families such as Martha and
Gabriel
Kachirisky who continue with this tradition. They make bread made
with the
original Russian recipe and Russian food for small groups.
This museum has a small exhibition of objects and memorabilia
from the Russian natives. They serve Russian dishes, sele cheese, bread
and fine wine.
You can also take a guided tour to the mission site, hot springs, cave
paintings and indigenous communities.
Getting there:
By air, at the International Airport General Abelardo L. Rodriguez,
the International Road s / n, in the municipality of Tijuana, arriving
an average of 120 daily flights from various cities in Mexico and the
United States.
— Radio MIL, NRM
Communications
|
|
6. Rancho
Guadalupe
Molokan
Cemetery,
Baja,
Lower
Calif.,
Mexico
21 photos posted by George "Ghrishka" Bolderoff. Find more info on
his Comments page.
Also see: Cemetery
Names
of
Pryguny
in
Mexico
|
7. Original Spanish: La
Comunidad
Rusa
en
Mexico / Machine translated: Mexico's
Russian
Colony
Posted in 1996 on "History of Mexican Peoples" by Dr. David Rojas,
Instituto Cultural "Raices
Mexicanas" and Assoc. Professor Ethnomusicology, University of
California, Santa Barbara. Translated from Mexican Vistas, by James Clifford
Safley. 1952. — In 1996 Dr. Rojas created a website — Folklorico.com — mainly about
Mexican dance. He is also interested in culture and included this
article. This excerpt was the first
significant information about Pryguny on the Internet,
appearing nearly a year before the Molokan
[and
Prygun]
Home
Page in 1997. Soon this article was found by a Prygun in
Russia,
Vitaly (Samudorov?) who e-mailed asking about relatives not contacted
since 1920. Vitaly's request fascinated Dr. Rojas who took a trip to
find these Russians in Mexcio and tells how he happened upon the
Russian museum — Museo Comunitario de El Valle De Guadalupe — at the
end of his first issue of "El Mitote",
November
1996.
He
briefly
tells
about
meeting
Andrés
and
Sonya
Samudoroff
and
giving
them
a
letter
from
Russia.
Later
Dr
Rojas
tried
to
help
the
new
museum
by
donating
a
computer
and
looking
for
someone
to
help
create
an
inventory
of
artifacts
in
the
village.
See Correspondence
with
Dr. Rojas in 1997.
|
8. Trying to Recapture Russian Emigres'
Life
in Mexico
Living Among Ghosts Brings a
Strange Peace
By Jessica Garrison — Los Angeles Times — December
1, 2002
The few descendants of a religious sect that fled czar's empire 100
years ago now put faith in trading on heritage to keep their ancestry
alive.
9. Contract
to
Maintain
Mexico
Church,
with
G.
A.
Kashirisky
Colonia Rus de Guadalupe,
Baja California, Mexico; Los Angeles, CA — June 1, 1992
|
10. Pacifist Community Perserves
By Mary Forgione, Los Angeles Daily News
The Arizona Republic, March 19, 1995, Travel Section, Page T6
|
11. Transplanted
Sakhaliner:
Cheurniy
Kleb
[Black
Bread]
in
Baja,
Mexico
The Sakhalin Times — Oct
9, 2004, Updated Aug 24, 2005
Good history with news that recent Russian immigrants want to live
there. Excerpts:
Losha was one of the first Russian students to study in Anchorage,
Alaska. He left Sakhalin in the early 90s and has never come back. He
prolonged his studies in Alaska and got a job in San Diego, where he
lived till 2000. Like most Russians abroad, he felt homesick, but
didn’t “want to go back to the hardships.” His life changed for the
better when he came to know about the [Pryguny] Molokhans .. a Russian
community
settled in the Guadalupe valley
in Baja California, Mexico ... “They are honest, hard-working, frugal,
peaceful, God-fearing people, who have been through numerous hardships
and who do not expect rewards except those that come from toil.
Simplicity is the keynote of their lives,” says Losha. “This place is
like a Russian version of the movie ‘The Village’”. The people freely
offer information on the history of the colony and the ideals for which
they strive, and invited the visitors to return. ... In spite of the
fact the colony was founded almost one hundred years ago, the
traditions are well preserved. “I feel like I am the future of this
place,” adds Losha. Losha has invited many old friends from
Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to come and settle in the colony, which he feels is
the only piece of the “good old Russia” on earth.
|
12. Mexico
Prygun
Historic
Monument
Planned
The proposed monument will be in front of the church along the street
fence, on a fenced courtyard slab about 8 feet on each side. There will
be 2 entry ways from the street. The monument will be 5 ft. high — a
3-foot high tablet sitting on a 2-foot high base which is 30-inch
square.
|
|
13. USC's Russian Club: Russians
in Mexico
Website of the Department of Slavic Languages and
Literature and Russian Club, University of California, Los Angeles. — 6
photos. (There were 9
museum photos taken about 2001). The sign says: "Russian Community
Museum and
Restaurant, Russian Kitchen / Local artwork and samples from 10
vineyards / Open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday to Sunday / Guadalupe
Valley since 1991, Telephone: 016-155-2030" [click on sign photo to enlarge] [All Russian
Club photos.]
|
|
14. Chapter
2:
The
Russians
of
Guadalupe
del
Norte
In Vintage Baja: Adventures of a Gringa in Lower California,
by
Marion
Smothers
—
The
travels
of
late
archaeologist
and
Peabody
Institute
Fellow
Marion
Smothers
were
published
in
1993
by
Bueno
Books.
Currently
out-of-print,
excerpts
from
this
book
have
been
made
available
to
Ensenada Baja
News-Gazette. "Editors Notes" at bottom show this photo and
tells about the museum, where to : "Sample authentic Russian dishes
prepared by the friendly
Samarin family in the tiny restaurant". — Abbreviated text below with
comments in red:
The [Pryguny] Malakans (also
spelled
"Molokans"), a Russian farming religious sect, purchased the valley,
now known as Guadalupe, from the Mexican government in 1905. How they
made their way from Czarist Russia to Canada *, through the United States to
an obscure spot in the mesa land of Lower California, appears to be
lost in the mists of history. The price is said to have been more than
$50,000 [$40,000].
A
village
site
was
laid
out:
building
lots,
a
wide
street,
the
church
of
their
native
Russia,
a
windmill,
irrigation
ditches
and
communal
fields.
[* Only a few Molokan
scouts stopped in Canada to visit Doukhobors but were told that Los
Angeles has more jobs and better climate. Most inhabitants in Mexico
never got to the US due to visa problems. For details online, see John
K Berokoff's [Pryguny] Molokans in America,
Chapter 2 —
The First Years.]
As we explored the neat village, we marveled at being transported back
into an exotic peasant community. Red-bearded men greeted us with grave
courtesy; their womenfolk, starched aprons over long skirts, shyly
smiled from the doorways of peak-roofed houses. Window boxes overflowed
with bright flowers. A sauna-type bath house shared space with each
kitchen garden. Sleek dairy herds (Malakan translated as Milk Drinker)
were sheltered in sturdy barns when not browsing the lush pastures. We
kept our distance from flocks of aggressive geese and colonies of bee
hives.
However, one encroachment of the modern world charmed us. Half-naked
Indian lads were playing soccer with their Russian friends. Even more
surprising, the Indians were shouting in Russian during the heat of the
game. ... Indian genes have mixed with Russian and Mexican to
evolve into the mestizo. ... The Malakans have left their graves among
what is now an ejido [Indian]
cemetery — and the legacy of a few red-headed Mexicans. [This is the first documentation taboo
racial mixing of white Molokans in the New World.]
|
15. Morris Photo Art —
4 photos of Mexican-Molokan grave markers
|
16. Ivan Guryevich Samarin
(1857-1948) —
the "Great [Prygun] Molokan Communicator"
Reproduced from the pages of the [Prygun] Molokan
Review,
1949, by Jon Kalmakoff on the Doukhobor
Genealogy
Website.
... Samarin and Pivovaroff found
and bought for the Brotherhood a plot of land in Guadalupe, Lower
California, Mexico, where Pivovaroff made his home. ... the
entire task of helping the migrants was left in Samarin's hands. ... In
March 1906, Samarin, on behalf of his fellow [Pryguny] Molokans,
travelled to
Mexico City and personally received the guaranties of religious freedom
and suspension of customs duties for the [Prygun] Molokan colony at
Guadalupe.
Then he carried protracted negotiations regarding land grants in Lower
California, at Rosario with Taras P. Tolmasoff and other [Prygun]
Molokan
representatives, and at Santa Rosa with P.M. Shubin, Ivan K. Mechikoff
and many others. ...
|
17.
Gale
Multicultural
America
Encyclopedia:
Russian
Americans
Most notable is the photo published in the book in the 1990s of
Prygun girls taken in Mexico, probably at a wedding.

Taken in 1947, this photograph demonstrates
the influence of American fashion on traditional Russian dress.
The lace shawls of these women are called kascinkas; their high-heeled shoes are American. [On
November
21, 2008, Elena posted this photo on her The
Happy
Wonderer blog, with comments about leg crossing, modern shoes
and showing leg. Some may be from California attending a wedding. No
one has yet identified them.]
The text includes some general statements with errors:
Nearly 5,000 [2500] members of a Russian
Christian religious sect known as the [Pryguny] Molokans settled in
California
during the first decade of the twentieth century. They formed the
nucleus of what has become a 20,000-member Russian Molokan community
that is concentrated today in San Francisco and Los Angeles. ... The
Old Believers and [Pryguny] Molokans have been most fervent in
retaining a sense
of Russian identity through an active use of the Russian language in
their religious services and in their daily lives.
|
18. Mexico:
A
destination
specialist
course. (PDF)
By The Travel Institute, 2004. Produced in partnership with the Mexico
Tourism Board. Winner of the 2005 PATA Gold Award.
Chapter 1: Baja California
— Beyond Ensenada: Attractions, page 14
The Museo Comunitario del Valle de Guadalupe,
in
a
Russian-style
house,
tells
the
story
of
the
wine-making
valley
and
of
the
[Pryguny]
Molokans,
non-Orthodox
Russian
peasants
who
were
granted
permission
to
resellte
and
to
worship
inthe
Valle
de
Guadalupe
by
the
Mexican
Government
in
1905.
The
[Pryguny]
Molokans
repaired
wine-making
equipments
left
from previous ventures and prospered in the valley.
|
19. The
Russians
of
Guadalupe
Valley
:
Milk
Drinkers
in
Wine
Country, in Baja
Legends:
The
Historic Characters, Events and Locations That Put
Baja
California on the Map, by
Greg
Niemann,
2002,
pages
108-110.
"The [Pryguny] Molokans worked hard and prayed hard. They dressed
simply; ...
They
became splendid citizens of Mexico, and while they spoke Russian in
church, they were ever loyal to their adopted country."
|
20. Bodega Bibayoff,
jAzZblOg, March 27, 2006
... one winery owned by Russian descendants, the Bodega de
Bibayoff. ... This was David Bibayoff, patriarch of this family
operation. [Shown in the photo
above with son Abel.] He graciously welcomed me and invited me
to join him
back in the warehouse where a group of distant relatives were waiting
for him to do a barrel tasting. ... Bibayoff is descended from a group
of Russian refugees, the [Pryguny] Molokans,
who, with the intervention and assistance of Leo Tolstoy(1), gained
permission from Tsar Nicholas(2)
to emigrate to the new world where they
hoped to practice their own brand of Christianity unmolested. After a
false start(3) in LA, they group settled
into the Guadalupe Valle and took
to doing what they did best: farming. The Valle flourished.
[3 mistakes here:
- Tolstoy did not
directly help Pryguny and Molokane emigrate.Tolstoy directly aided
Doukhobors by giving money to Quakers in London to help Doukhobors
leave after they were persecuted for burning
guns in 1895. Already divided,
one-third of all
Doukhobors moved to Canada, but less than 1% of
all
Pryguny and Molokane moved on
their own. Pryguny and Molokane requested money from Tolstoy which was
refused. Because Doukhboors divided again in Canada when denied their
own communal land, Tolstoy indirectly via assistants, provided advice and guidance for
Pryguny and Molokane to go to America instead of Canada. Land agents
gave a few scouts a free sales tour. Tolstoy probably did not know the
difference between Molokane and Pryguny, and seemd to lump them as one
group in his diary. Land agents who were trying to get the Doukhobors
for cheap white labor and settlers directed the Pryguny Mexico, to
Guadalupe Valley, La Paz, Tampico and Semiola. They chose Guadalupe
probably because it was closest to Los Angeles.
- Tolstoy petitioned
the Tsar Nickolas
II to permit freedom for all
religious dissenters and allow them to emigrate which was denied all
but Doukhobors. In
1903-04 Tsar Nicholas II proclaimed tolerance
of non-Orthodox citizens, which formally freed Russia's religious
minorities from state restriction and persecution,
but ended in 1917 with his assassination and overthrow of the government. During this time,
Molokane built 2-story centers in Astrakhanka, Ukraine; and Tbilisi,
Georgia. 1% of Pryguny and Molokane managed to flee for economics after
their tax and low rent settler priveledges ended, some left to avoid
military service. Most of those with no passport ended up in Mexico.
- The "false start in LA" may refer to
the failed large communal farm in the Territory of Hawaii, while Texas was rejected. More
significant is that many of the residents did
not have visas to enter the US. The Mexico Russian colonies lasted up
to the
1960s when the presbyter Samarin died and no one replaced him. The
prayer house is financially maintained by members in the US.]
....
Now,
there
are
a
few
families
left
and
Bibayoff
holds
forth
with
his
son,
Abel,
running
their
vineyard.
What
makes
Bibayoff
special
...
selling
grapes
to
other
wineries.
The
wine
that
is
produced
here
is
strictly
for
family,
guests,
festivals
and
occasional
restaurants....
a
dozen
folks
from
suburban LA
waiting for us. ... nieces and cousins of Bibayoff who had
never met him before. They'd discovered him and the
vineyard through some Internet work and, after an email contact,
decided to come have a look. They'd been tasting with Abel for
some time when we arrived and were especially warm and friendly in
their afternoon buzz. ... his
daughter was pleading with him to bottle it all exclusively for
her. ... 'this wine is not for sale.' ...
Bibayoff
Vineyard and Winery, Baja
Wine Country Guide, gives an
update of the story above.
- Location: Valle de Guadalupe
- Tel: (646) 176-1008
- Email: bibayoff@prodigy.net.mx
- Directions: Off
highway # 3 at "El Tigre", follow the dirt road to Rancho Bibayoff.
[Note the mis-use of Russian
Orthodox Church imagery in the Bibayoff Vinos logos. Molokans are
neither
Russian Orthodox nor wine makers. Though a samovar would be a better
fit, business
rules. The average consumer — a Mexcian Catholic — is more likely to
associate "onion domes" than a samovar with Russia(n). Unfortunately these
logos project a false impression that Pryguny
are Orthodox
in faith and offically support alcohol consumption.]
More
- Videos
— YouTube.com (below)
- Listed on WineriesinBaja.com
- Rancho
Torros
Pintos
(Bibayoff), ~50 photos of Bibayoiff ranch and area,
Panoramio.com
- Bibayoff,
Russian
tradition
settled
in
México, (photos), Gina Naya,
Food & Wine web site
- Photo Bucket.com/Darwalk/Mexico Wineries/, 2 images of entrance
and courtyard
- Wine, Music
and Food Festivals in Baja California, Mexico, Vino-Tourism by Steve Dryden, June
9, 2008.
- Interviews with Bibayoff family and photos (below) of
museum in От Карса до Мексики:
русские молокане на другом конце светаx, РИА Новости, 03.07.2009 [From Kars to Mexico:
Russian Molokans at the other end of the world, RIA News, July 3, 2009]
- Russian
Vintners Win Gold at Baja California Wine Event, Vino-Tourism by Steve Dryden
August 31, 2009.
|
21. The
Russian Colony of Guadalupe Molokans in Mexico.
Read
online. A book by
George
W. Mohoff, 226 pages, 1995.
199 photos / illustrations, plus a cross-indexed map of each home in the
colony by head of household name. Though missing many details, this is
the first comprehensive book to document the history of Pryguny in Mexico — from V.G.
Moloff
fleeing the Tsar's army
while
doing guard duty in St. Petersburg, to land ownership, swimming in the
river, cowboys and Indians, farm animals, church services, why they
left, and more. $25
from the UMCA Heritage Room, Hacienda Heights CA; or
from Mrs. George Mohoff, 2221 Via Camille, Montebello CA 90640; phone:
323-721-8610 — Also check out this book at your local library via
interlibrary loan from at least 6 libraries in California. See Appendix (names
lists).
|
22. Books
about Pryguny Mexico at
public libraries, listed at WorldCat
- 1928 — The Russian colony
of
Guadalupe Valley, Lower Californian Studies 2,
by Oskar Schmieder, University of California Press, Berkeley, 1928
- 1960 — Spiritual
Christians in
Mexico :
profile of a Russian village by Sydney Rochelle Story, Ph.D.
dissertation, University of Southern
California, 1960
- 1963 — A Sojourn in Baja
California,
1915 by Ulysses S.
Grant IV ,
Historical Society of Southern California,
1963. Reprint from Southern California Quarterly, Vol. XLV, No. 2, June
1963, pages 128-168.
- 1966 — The Russian Colony
of Guadalupe Valley, California State College at Los Angeles
(1966) by John Dewey. [Now: California State University, Los Angeles.]
- 1968 — The Russian colony
of
Guadalupe
Valley : a research paper by Richard Cota and Richard W Day,
1968
- 1988 — Spirit Jumpers : the
Russian Molokans of Baja California by Therese Adams
Muranaka, San
Diego Museum of Man, 1988
- 1992 — The Russian
Molokan Colony at Guadalupe, Baja California : continuity and change in
a sectarian
community, by Therese Adams Muranaka, PhD dissertation
University of Arizona, 1992
- 1995 — The
Russian
Colony
of
Guadalupe
:
Molokans
in
Mexico, with map, by
George
W
Mohoff,
1995.
- 2001
— "Rusia en Mexico," Baja California,
tierra incógnita, by Fernando Jordán, 2001, pages 51-56.
- 2003 — "Russians,
Wineries,
and
the
Real
Baja:
Inland
route
from
Ensenada
to
Tecate". Weekend
driver: San Diego,
by Jack Brandais, 2003, pages 135-144.
|
23. Videos —
YouTube.com
- Samarin Restaurant and Museum
- Bibayoff Ranch
- Guadalupe Valley
Top ^
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