Armenian-Molokans: From Kars to Los Angeles

  1. Karakala, Kars oblast, Russia
  2. My Trip to Turkey, 1999, by Joyce Keosababian-Bivin
  3. Why Armenians Moved to Karakala, by Joyce Keosababian-Bivin
  4. First Armenian Pentecostal Church, La Habra Heights, California

Karakala

Kars oblast, Russia (before 1921, now in Turkey)

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CLICK to ENLARGEKarakala (also: Karakale) was a village area where many of the Armenians who joined the Molokan sect lived, near other Russian-Molokans villages in Russian Armenia. Karakala means "Black Fortress". This village photo was taken in the late 1800s shortly after the Armenians moved in to this abandoned military outpost. You can see the residents posing for the photographer. It's located about 15 miles north of the city of Kars near the present day village of Taslica, west of Susuz. (Click on pictures to ENLARGE)

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Latitude
Longitude
  
Karakala: see Taslica
Taslica
"40°46'00""N"
"40°46'00""N"
"43°02'00""E"
"43°02'00""E

During the 1800s Molokans were resettled into the Caucasus (Azerbaidjan, Georgia, Armenia) to establish Russian colonies along the new borders of the Russian Empire. First they were resettled into Azerbaidjan, then Georgia, Armenia, and at the end of the 1800s, Kars oblast. Oblast is Russian for region/province, like a state. In the last Russo-Turkish War (1877-78), Russia took this territory and moved Russian colonists in, mainly sectarians — Molokans, Doukhobors, Subbotniki, and several German groups (Mennonites, Lutherans, Baptists, etc). In a 1921 treaty, the USSR returned the districts of Kars and Ardahan, acquired in 1878, to Turkey. Read more about the Russo-Turkish wars.

In the early 1900s (especially 1905-12), about 3000 Molokans, and Armenians who joined them, in the Caucasus, mainly in war-torn Kars, fled to America, many to avoid military service, others to find employment. In the river "Flats" area on the eastside of Los Angeles, they formed their own Armenian-Molokan Church near the other Molokan village churches. The church had several locations, mainly in homes, but the last location in the Flats was just south of 4th Street below the International Institute on land that is now in the south bound lane of the Santa Ana (I-5) Freeway.

In 1926, the sectarians (Molokans and Doukhobors) remaining in Kars and Ardahan oblasts were offered free land in the barren Sal'ski steppe in Rostov, Russia. All of the Doukhobors and about 90% of the Molokans moved. In the 1930s Turkey became very nationalistic and every non-Turk had to have a Turkish name. In the next decades all the Molokan villages were concentrated into 3 villages — Yalinçayir, Atçilar, and Çalkavur. In 1962, the Molokans in Turkey were offered homes on collective farms (kolkhoz) in northern Stavropol'skii krai, or in cities (Astrakhan, Stavropol', ...). 

CLICK to ENLARGEThe topography of Karakala is hilly. In fact, Molokans who migrated to Los Angeles and then moved into Boyle Heights, up the hill from the "Flats", named a part of their Molokan neighborhood "Kara-kala", sometime pronounced "Krik-kala". It is bordered on the north by Whittier Boulevard, on the south by Eighth Street, on the east by Lorena Street and on the west by Soto Street. Before the Santa Ana (I-5) Freeway was built, this neighborhood resembled the hills near Karakala in the old country in which the hills form a sharp angle with the flat land, rather than a gradual alluvial slope. Part of the distinct hill remains on the westside, behind Bishop Mora High School. (Click on map to ENLARGE) For some oral history, see Molokans in America, Chapter 1.

The most famous Armenian-Molokan family from Karakala is the Shakarian family, notably son Demos. They had a large dairy farm in Downey CA, produced the book The Happiest People on Earth, and founded the religious organization FGBMFIFull Gospel Business Men's Fellowship International. Demos split from the original Armenian-Molokan church which moved from East LA to La Habra Heights, not far from the current UMCA. Our History describes how his family was saved by Efim G. Klubnikin's prophesies and by Molokans who regularly visited Karakala village, the migration, and meeting Protestants in Los Angeles. Also, the fate of their Karakala village is reported: "Two years later, the great World War I broke out, and in the terrible onslaught, when Turkey overran Armenia, every soul in Kara Kala was wiped out."


Excerpts about the Armenian-Molokans and Karakala, from Molokans in America by John K Berokoff

Chapter 1
     A large neighboring Armenian village, Karakalla, became converted to the Christian Jumpers, most of whom eventually came to America at the same time as the Russian Molokans.
 
     Meanwhile Klubnikin took it upon himself to inform the villagers in the Erevan region. Traveling from one village to another, he confided his revelations to elders in that area who, in his opinion, were sympathetic to the cause but being told about others who were not favorably disposed and fearing betrayal as an agitator, he returned to Romanovka and concentrated his efforts in the region of Kars, not neglecting to inform the Armenian brethren in Karakalla that unless they left the country their people will endure far more in the coming period of tribulation than their Russian brethren. This warning was heeded by the majority of the Dukhonvy Armenians and when the time came they followed the latter to America. [Footnote: The prophesy[sic] concerning the Armenians literally came to pass in the first world war. When the Turkish army marched through the area in 1917, they committed unspeakable atrocities against the Armenian people in all the villages, including Karakalla. For that reason the memory of Efeem Gerasimitch Klubnikin is revered among the Armenian Molokans to this day.]

     This debate continued in all Molokan villages throughout Trans-Caucasia and the Trans-Caspian regions for about three years or until the beginning of the winter of 1904.

     ... Very early in that winter a conference was assembled by the elders of the Kars region in the village of Novo-Mihailovka where representatives of ten communities were present, including a leading member of the Armenian community of Karakalla, Ardzuman Ivanitch Ohanessian, who was much respected in the Russian Molokan communities.

Chapter 2
     Evergreen Cemetery ... The Armenian Molokans too, were participants in the undertaking and quite a number of their people were buried there.

Chapter 3
     The elders decreed that a large tent was to be installed on some near-by vacant lot and that Paskha should be observed together by all congregations after a three-day fast to conform to the command of the Holy Spirit.  ... including the Armenian brethren.

Chapter 7
[Page 135] At the end of February, 1945 the Advisory Council compiled and circulated an accounting of total sums collected from the entire brotherhood and the amount contributed by each contributing congregation. Following are the totals as shown by the accounting: Armenian Molokan Church, $127.00


My Trip to Turkey, 1999

Karakala means "Black Fortress"

By Joyce Keosababian-Bivin, an American-Armenian-Molokan who has been exploring her family history for over 10 years. She has visited Armenia several times. The map of Kars and photos are hers.

According to oral tradition, Karakala was an Armenia Protestant village — some Molokan Armenians and some regular Protestants.

My grandfather Zorab and his brother John Keosababian had a sister named Anna, who was also called Shogho, and in the old family letters, sometimes referred to as Abla, meaning "eldest" sister. Anna married a Molokan named Vasili Artyomovich. Their children were Alex, Katya, Uljasha, Vasily, Ivan and Manya. After Zorab and John went to America, they exchanged letters with their father Yacov (Hagop), Anna, Vasili and Alex, and later, their daughter Manya continued corresponding with her uncles in America.

Manya married Nikolai Fydorovitch Polunin. They had nine children; Vasili, Ona, Katya, Grisha, Yasha, Vanya, Ivan, Dunya and Tanya (Tatsyana). They lived in the Molokan village of  Malaya Vorontsovka which apparently was in the vicinity of Karakala, Dubovka and other villages where Molokans lived. My great-grandfather Hagop Keosababian lived in Karakala, and also in Vorontsovka, Dubovka and Cakmak [renamed: Çalkavur].

The return address on some of Manya's letters had the family name Dagala. During the Russian period, mail was not delivered to the villages outside of Kars, so I always assumed Dagala was the name of the merchant or place where our family received their mail.

For over eight years, I had been trying to find the descendants of my great Aunt Anna but to no avail. Telephone calls in America and an Internet search all brought no results.

One day in desperation, I decided to write to the Dagala address and ask if those living there remembered the Polunin family and possibly knew where they went. I had the letter translated into Turkish and finally last July, after waiting for a couple of months, mailed it. I mailed it doubting that it would reach that address and even more doubtful that I would receive an answer.

Meanwhile in August, I made a serious decision to go to Turkey with Armen Aroyan's Historic Armenia Tour where Armenians, mainly from America,  visit the places where their parents and grandparents lived before they came to America or perished during the massacres. I have for many years dreamed of visiting Kars and finding Karakala. After I made the decision to go on this trip, to my great surprise, I received a reply from the son of Tatsyana, the granddaughter of my great aunt Anna who married a Molokan. He informed me they were still living in the same village (Voronstovka?), now called Incesu, and invited me to visit them, and included their phone number.

On September 7, I flew to Istanbul and joined the small group of Armenians from America. Very early the next morning we flew to Kars, via Ankara. We arrived in Kars at 10:30 a.m. and called Tatsyana to tell her we were on our way. We then drove straight to Incesu, about 16 miles northeast of Kars.

As we drove into the village of Incesu, there was a little old lady just standing on the side of the road of which we paid no attention. Suddenly, Jamal, our driver stopped the van. He had a "feeling" about this lady  with her long dress, sweater and scarf tied under her chin and  backed up to talk to her.  It was indeed Tatsyana.

We arrived at the house and walked across the street as a gaggle of geese scurried away. The house was surrounded by a low brick wall covered with white plaster and as we followed Tatsyana through the gate, we saw in the distance two women in long dresses and head scarves pitching hay down to someone operating a threshing machine on the other side of the hay stack. Soon, we met Tatsyana's sons and two daughter-in-laws who were the women pitching hay to the threshing machine when we arrived and  were now serving us red Turkish tea in demitasse size glasses. Someone commented that could have been me pitching hay if my grandparents had not fled to America.

Tatsya  is 78 years old, and converted to Islam in order to marry a Turkish man. Now a widow she has five children. Tatsya and her three sons still live in the same village where her parents and grandparents lived. Some of her brothers and sisters live in Tibilisi, Moscow, Ankara and the U.S. Her sister Katya, lives in Stavropol. In 95 years nothing much seems to have changed in the village except for electricity and television. Hay wagons are now pulled by tractors. It was hard to comprehend that I was standing in the same village and perhaps the same house as my great grandparents and their family.

I learned that after Kars was turned over to Turkey by Russia, many Armenians and Russians Turkified their surnames.  Manya's husband changed their family name from Polunin to Dagala. The last of the Molokans left in 1962-1964.

After our visit, we began our search for Karakala. A couple of years ago when I called my mother's 90-year-old cousin Myrtle to ask about Karakala, she said it didn't exist anymore. It had been filled in. I didn't believe her.  I wanted to believe it still existed and that I would be able to visit it someday.To condense this part of our adventure, I will confirm that, yes indeed, cousin Myrtle was right. Karakala is filled in but we found evidence on the land and confirmation by nearby villagers of its former existence as a military outpost and village.

The modern town of Kars is clean and bustling with activity.  There is a modern pedestrian walk with water fountains, shops and outdoor cafés.  There was a sunflower seed vender on the sidewalk with his wagon, selling whole sunflower heads. Kars is 6000 feet high and air was clean and crisp — no smog, no pollution. Unfortunately, we had only one hour to walk around before traveling to Ani.

We checked out of our hotel and as we drove down one of the streets, we passed the old section which is where I really should have visited. Next time.
CLICK to ENLARGEPhoto 35. Taken between Taslica and Incesu (Vorontsovka) in 1999. Supposedly Karakala was filled in and buried, but our driver saw evidence this area was inhabited at one time. Notice the hills in the background.


We found Taslica, a primitive Kurdish village of scattered houses on jagged landscape totally exposed to the elements. Jamal talked to the chief and some of the men and it was obvious this wasn't Karakala. But apparently they knew where it had been and in one of my photos, a man is pointing towards teh east, from where we arrived. I lost hope of finding our village and Armen said it was all a mystery. After a few miles, Jamal with his sixth sense ability, stopped the van and told me to "come." The area was flat, perfect for farming (there was a potato patch across the road), but in the background, there were a few hilly slopes, one with a crater-like formation between the slopes, kind of like a small gorge maybe. A river ran between the hills and the plain. Jamal began to show me certain rock formations on the land that indicated the place was inhabited at one time. We found a whitewashed stone and one that was part of a door post. I couldn't see the entire length of the land, but shortly a tractor appeared on the horizon which could have been a sloped section of a hill.
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Photo 36
. Same site, but another view, as Photo 35.

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We returned to the van and Jamal drove off. A couple of miles down the road, he turned into a village and drove through it out onto another plain, where there was another hilly area and the same river flowing between the same type of hills with very jagged sloping between them. It was obvious this was the continuation of the first place we visited, with a modern day road dividing it. Again, there was strong evidence of the area having been inhabited at one time. Jamal talked to some of the villagers and they all said it had been a military outpost. There was a 10 minute downpour before we arrived at the second site and my shoes and feet were caked with this black dirt and when the dirt dried, I was able to collect some of the black dirt and bring it home.
CLICK to ENLARGEPhoto 38. Photo of Karakala. Everyone in our American-Armenian- Molokan community seems to have a copy of this photo. Notice the hills in the background with the gorge in the middle. They don't show well in photos 35 and 36, but in photo 37, the second site, they're pretty clear. Even so, none of these places may be the real Karakala site. [If you look at the hills and "U" shaped gorge in the background, this shot seems similar to Photo 36.] Click on photos to ENLARGE.
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Karakala villagers posing closest to the camera. Click photo to ENLARGE.
CLICK to ENLARGEPhoto 37. After we left the first site, our driver cut through a neighboring village and drove out to this second site which, in his opinion, more likely our Karakala. Actually, this could be an extension of the first site only now separated by a road. [These may be the hills that cause Molokans in LA to call their neighborhood, Kara-kala.] [Notice the mountain in the background are nearly identical to the mountains behind the village photo taken in the late 1800s.]


Why Armenians Moved to Karakala

By Joyce Keosababian-Bivin

There are no records as to when the Armenians moved to Karakala, or when the Russians built their military outpost camp at Karakala, whether it was built on a new site or one previously inhabited. The closest information we have is from Siragan Kaloian, on page 10 in his 1950 book, The Immigration of Armenians of Shirag to America: "This village was comparatively of recent origin having been established after the Russo-Turkish war of 1878. It was, in a sense, a modern village, with beautiful buildings and wide streets."

Before moving to Karakala, the Armenians previously lived in Gezeachkhlar (exact spelling and location unknown). As Protestants, they were not readily tolerated by the villagers and were constantly harassed.

M. Mushagian remembers pastor Perumian telling stories of how the hooligans in this village harassed and persecuted the Protestants with verbal insults, throwing stones, vandalizing their crops and digging up newly buried people and displaying their bodies on the ground or tying them to a tree. "So after awhile they got tired of what they were going through, and would go to the government and tell them their story. So the government (Tzar Nicholas II) tells them if they want to, they could move to an empty Russian military outpost. And so the entire Protestant community moved to Karakala."

"Shortly after, a photographer from the city went to the village and told the people he would like to take a picture of their village. Some of the people dressed up and stood in front of the barracks where they lived. The picture is taken from afar so it is hard to recognize any one of them." (Someone speculated that those dressed in white were the Armenian Molokans, those in black were the non Molokan Armenians.)

First Armenian Pentecostal Church

CLICK to ENLARGEThe Armenian-Molokan Church in America was first located in the Los Angeles "Flats" near the other Molokan village churches. Like all the immigrant Molokan villages, services were held in homes at first until a dedicated prayer house was purchased.

When the Santa Ana Freeway was planned, the Armenian-Molokan Church, Big Church, and many other buildings were demolished. Many families had to move. The second Armenian-Molokan Church relocated in East Los Angeles on Goodrich Blvd, about a block south of Olympic Blvd., on the corner of  _?___ .

About 1970?, the congregation moved further east closer to their membership. They purchased rtheir third building from the Lutherans in La Habra Heights, on West Road, one door west of Hacienda Blvd, about a mile north of Whitter Blvd.. It's located between the UMCA in Hacienda Heights and the relocated Milkoy Church in Whittier. See map and photos below.

The congregation changed their legal name to be identified as Pentecostal, but they retained their Molokan form of service with holidays and food laws they learned from the Spritual Christian Molokan Jumpers.

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Third location of of the Amrenian-
Molokan Church, renamed:

First Armenian Pentecostal Church
Map from Yahoo! Maps
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First Armenian Pentecostal Church
from the air.
Aerial photo from Microsoft
TerraServer-USA

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Though the Armenian-Molokans also
avoided icons and crosses, they
purchased this new building from a
Lutheran congregation and decided
to leave the decoration "as is". The
cross is not part of their service inside.

— Photo from: USC Lewis Hall Exhibit
March-May 2003: "Sacred Transformation:
Armenian Churches in Los Angeles
"

First Armenian Pentecostal Church
125 West Road (near Hacienda Blvd), La Habra Heights, CA  90631-8046
Presbyter: Stanley Perumean. — Home/message phone: 562-690-7580

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